Natural Diamond Colors

Natural diamonds sparkle with a striking array of colors, from the flawless clarity of colorless gems to the rare vibrancy of fancy colored diamonds—pink, red, blue, green, yellow, brown, orange, purple, gray, black, opaque white, and chameleon—enthralling collectors and jewelers worldwide.

Formed billions of years ago in the Earth’s mantle under extreme heat and pressure, these gems derive their colors from trace impurities and structural defects: nitrogen produces yellows and browns, boron creates blues, hydrogen shapes purples, radiation yields greens, and inclusions form opaque whites.

While over 90% of mined diamonds fall within the colorless to light yellow “normal range,” graded on the GIA D–Z scale for white diamonds, fancy colored diamonds, making up less than 1% of production, are celebrated for their intense, rare hues. Unearthed from global mines through kimberlite eruptions or alluvial deposits, natural colored diamonds captivate through their geological rarity.

Natural Fancy diamond colors.

Diamond color grading, a cornerstone of valuation, drives the luxury jewelry market, with rare colored diamonds often commanding millions per carat, outshining even top-grade colorless gems in prestige and allure.

The Spectrum of Natural Fancy Colored Diamonds

Natural diamonds showcase a broad palette—steel gray, brilliant white, sky blue, canary yellow, fiery orange, blood red, verdant green, delicate pink through rich purple, warm brown, and deep black. Their colors stem from trace impurities or subtle lattice distortions, while diamonds free of such defects remain completely transparent and colorless.

Natural diamond colors range from colorless to yellow, brown, pink, blue, and green due to lattice defects and trace element impurities.

Colorless Diamonds

Colorless diamonds present a transparent, glass-like appearance, delivering exceptional brilliance due to their lack of hue, with less than 1% of mined diamonds achieving the elite D-grade.

Their pristine look stems from a near-perfect carbon crystal lattice, typically Type IIa, free of significant nitrogen or boron impurities that cause yellow or blue tints in other diamonds. Formed 150–200 km deep in the Earth’s mantle under intense pressure, they surface via kimberlite or lamproite eruptions.

Colorless diamond grading scale from D (exceptional white) to Z (light tint).

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades these “white” diamonds on the D–Z scale, where D represents truly colorless stones, E and F show trace hues only to trained gemologists, and G–Z exhibit increasing yellow or brown tints due to nitrogen impurities.

Grading occurs under standardized, neutral lighting (6,500K daylight-equivalent) against master stones, ensuring precision; D–F stones reflect maximum light, commanding premium prices, while G–J offer near-colorless value, and K–Z show noticeable tints, reducing worth. Mined in Russia’s Yakutia region, Botswana’s Jwaneng, Canada’s Diavik and Ekati, and South Africa’s Cullinan mines, they are globally sought.

Notable examples include the 530.4-carat Cullinan I, a D-color gem in the British Crown Jewels, cut from the 3,106-carat Cullinan rough, and the 105-carat Koh-i-Noor, a historic colorless diamond of Indian origin. Though more common than fancy colors like red or blue, colorless diamonds, especially D–F grades, appeal to collectors and jewelers for their clarity and brilliance, often fetching tens of thousands per carat, though vivid colored gems may surpass their value in rare cases.

Yellow Diamonds

Yellow diamonds, among the most common fancy colored diamonds, captivate with hues ranging from faint lemon to vivid canary yellow, adding warmth to jewelry designs. Their color stems from nitrogen impurities within the diamond’s crystal lattice, where specific arrangements absorb blue light to create the yellow appearance.

In Type Ia diamonds, aggregated nitrogen, such as N3 or N2 centers, produces lighter yellows, often termed “Cape” diamonds, while Type Ib diamonds, with isolated nitrogen atoms (C-centers), yield the intense “canary” yellows prized for their bold saturation.

These diamonds form in the Earth’s mantle, incorporating nitrogen as they crystallize, and are mined globally, with significant deposits in South Africa’s Cape Province, renowned for the historic “Cape series,” as well as Australia’s Ellendale mine, Russia, Brazil, Canada, Angola, Congo, and Sierra Leone.

Famous Tiffany Yellow Diamond, a 128.54-carat fancy vivid yellow cushion-cut gemstone with VS1 clarity.

Notable examples include the Tiffany Yellow Diamond, a 128.54-carat cushion-cut gem from South Africa, displayed at Tiffany & Co.’s New York store, and the Sun-Drop Diamond, a 110.3-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow that sold for $12.36 million. While fancy yellows are relatively common, vivid shades command high values, with some fetching over $100,000 per carat, making them both accessible and coveted.

Brown Diamonds

Brown diamonds, the most common fancy colored diamonds, range from light tan to deep cocoa, often marketed as “champagne,” “cognac,” or “chocolate” diamonds for their earthy appeal. Their color primarily results from plastic deformation in the crystal lattice, where immense pressure and temperature during formation or rapid ascent in kimberlite or lamproite eruptions cause carbon atoms to slip, creating internal graining or lamellae.

These structural defects absorb light, centered around 550 nm, producing brown tones, though nitrogen impurities can add brownish tints. Abundant globally, brown diamonds are sourced from Australia’s now-closed Argyle mine, which supplied 80% of the world’s supply, as well as South Africa, Russia, Brazil, and Angola.

Brown diamond color scale illustrating hues from light champagne to cognac.

The Golden Jubilee Diamond, a 545.67-carat yellow-brown gem, the largest cut diamond, and the Incomparable, a 407.48-carat brownish stone, are iconic examples. Once deemed industrial-grade, brown diamonds gained popularity through marketing by Rio Tinto and Le Vian, transforming them into affordable, desirable gems often paired with rose gold.

Pink Diamonds

Pink diamonds, among the rarest and most coveted fancy colored diamonds, range from faint pink to intense rose or fancy vivid hues, exuding a romantic allure. Their color primarily results from plastic deformation in the crystal lattice, where extreme pressure and shear, possibly in subduction zones or during rapid kimberlite ascent, create structural anomalies like oriented lamellae.

These defects absorb green light around 550 nm, producing the pink hue, with less than 0.5% of pinks attributed to rare nitrogen-vacancy centers causing pale shades. Historically, over 90% of pink diamonds came from Australia’s Argyle mine, closed in 2020, with other sources in Brazil, Russia, South Africa, India, and Tanzania.

Pink diamond color scale illustrating hues from faint pink to fancy vivid.

Notable examples include the Pink Star, a 59.60-carat Fancy Vivid Pink sold for $71.2 million, the Graff Pink, a 24.78-carat Fancy Intense Pink, and the Daria-i-Noor, a 182-carat pale pink in the Iranian Crown Jewels. The Argyle mine’s closure has driven prices soaring, with vivid pinks fetching $1–2 million per carat, making them prized for elite jewelry.

Red Diamonds

Red diamonds, the rarest of all fancy colored diamonds, fascinate with their vivid crimson hue, often called “pigeon’s blood” for its intense purity. With fewer than 30 certified Fancy Red diamonds exceeding 0.5 carats known, their scarcity drives their allure.

Unlike other colored diamonds, their striking red arises not from trace elements like nitrogen or boron but from extreme plastic deformation in the crystal lattice. This defect, intensified from the strain of high-pressure subduction zones or kimberlite ascents, creates an absorption band at 550 nm, allowing red wavelengths to dominate.

Red diamond ring featuring The Argyle Phoenix, a rare fancy red radiant-cut diamond from Australia's Argyle Mine.

Most red diamonds originate from Australia’s Argyle mine, with rare finds in Brazil, Russia, and Africa. Well-known examples include the 5.11-carat Moussaieff Red, sold for $8 million, the 5.05-carat Kazanjian Red, and the 0.95-carat Hancock Red, which fetched $880,000 per carat in 1987. Valued at $1–2 million per carat, these vivid gems are prized by collectors and rarely appear at auction, making them treasures of both science and luxury.

Blue Diamonds

Blue diamonds, exceptionally scarce among colored diamonds, charm with hues from pale sky blue to deep sapphire, often with grayish or violetish undertones, comprising just 0.02% of mined diamonds.

Their color stems from trace boron atoms replacing carbon in the crystal lattice, creating electron holes that absorb red, orange, and yellow light, transmitting blue wavelengths. Classified as Type IIb, these diamonds, often electrically conductive due to boron’s semi-conductivity, form 410–660 km deep in the lower mantle, where boron-rich fluids from subducted oceanic crust are incorporated, later surfacing via kimberlite eruptions.

Five blue diamonds recovered at Cullinan mine in September 2020.

Major sources include South Africa’s Cullinan mine, India’s historic Golconda fields, and, rarely, Australia’s Argyle mine for violetish-blues. Prominent examples include the 45.52-carat Hope Diamond, a Fancy Deep Grayish-Blue at the Smithsonian, and the 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue, a Fancy Vivid Blue sold for $57.1 million. Fetching millions per carat, blue diamonds engage collectors and scientists with their rarity and deep-mantle origins.

Green Diamonds

Green diamonds charm with hues from pale mint to vivid deep forest green, often tinged with yellowish or grayish undertones, comprising less than 0.07% of mined diamonds. Their color results from natural radiation over millions of years, as alpha, beta, and gamma rays from uranium or thorium displace carbon atoms, forming GR1 vacancy centers that absorb red and yellow light.

Rarer H3 centers (nitrogen-vacancy-nitrogen complexes) or trace hydrogen and nickel impurities deepen the green, while graphite inclusions yield gray-green tones. Formed in kimberlite or alluvial gravels near radioactive minerals, they are sourced from Brazil, Venezuela, Guyana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, and India.

Green-diamond color scale showing hue variations from light mint to deep forest green.

Notable examples include the 41-carat Dresden Green, a Fancy Yellowish Green prized for its uniform color distribution, and the 5.03-carat Aurora Green, a Fancy Vivid Green sold for $12.4 million. Commanding $1–2 million per carat, green diamonds engage collectors and scientists with their rarity and radiation-induced origins.

Orange Diamonds

Orange diamonds, among the rarest of fancy colored gems, radiate vibrant warmth with hues from light tangerine to vivid pumpkin—earning them the nickname “fire diamonds.”

Their pure orange arises when nitrogen atoms occupy either paired (N‑V‑N) or isolated (C‑center) sites, and lattice strain further shifts absorption into a pronounced 480 nm band that filters out blue and yellow light. Representing less than 0.05% of all diamonds, they crystallize in nitrogen‑rich kimberlites under high-pressure conditions, and are chiefly mined in South Africa, Australia’s Argyle mine, and Central Africa, with occasional finds in Sierra Leone and South America.

Orange-diamond color scale ranging from light tangerine to vivid pumpkin.

Exemplary specimens include the 5.54‑carat Fancy Vivid Pumpkin Diamond—worn by Halle Berry at the 2002 Academy Awards—and The Orange, a 14.82‑carat Fancy Vivid pear sold for $35.5 million in 2013. Since Argyle’s 2020 closure, vivid oranges commanding $100,000–$200,000 per carat have only grown more coveted, celebrated both for their geological singularity and their trophy‑worthy allure.

Purple Diamonds

Purple diamonds, exceptionally rare among colored gems, attract with hues spanning delicate lavender to rich violet, often accented by pink, red, or blue undertones, exuding refined elegance. Their color likely results from plastic deformation in the crystal lattice, similar to pink diamonds, paired with hydrogen-related defects; trace boron may play a role in rare instances, though the exact cause remains uncertain.

Combining pink’s structural distortions and violet’s hydrogen influences, pure purples are extraordinarily scarce, with vivid specimens commanding premium value. Primarily sourced from Australia’s now-closed Argyle mine and Russia’s Yakutia region, with occasional finds in South Africa, they are rarely encountered.

Purple diamond color scale ranging from delicate lavender to rich violet.

Iconic gems include the 7.34-carat Royal Purple Heart, a Fancy Vivid Purple, and the 2.83-carat Argyle Violet, auctioned for about $3 million per carat. Matching the value of pinks and reds, purple diamonds intrigue collectors and researchers with their rarity and mysterious origins.

Gray Diamonds

Gray diamonds, with their subtle hues ranging from light silvery to deep charcoal, offer a sophisticated, understated elegance that has surged in popularity for contemporary jewelry designs. Their muted color primarily stems from hydrogen impurities or structural defects in the crystal lattice, sometimes combined with low concentrations of boron or dark inclusions like graphite, which create a metallic or “steel diamond” appearance.

In some cases, lattice strain akin to brown diamonds or hydrogen-related defects in Type IIa stones contribute to the grayish tone, with blue, violet, or green secondary hues adding complexity. Sourced from Siberia, South Africa, Brazil, India, and Australia’s Argyle mine, gray diamonds are rarer than brown or yellow but more common than vivid blues or purples.

Gray diamond color scale showing neutral hues from light silver to deep charcoal with tone variations.

Notable examples include the Sultan of Morocco, a 35.27-carat grayish-blue cushion-cut gem, and the Lili Marleen, an 80.2-carat gray-blue pear-shaped diamond. Though less celebrated individually, fancy gray diamonds, fetching tens to hundreds of thousands per carat, are prized for their versatility and minimalist appeal in modern designs.

Black Diamonds

Black diamonds, striking for their opaque, jet-black appearance, stand apart with an unconventional, bold aesthetic, often featured in avant-garde and men’s jewelry. Their dark color comes from a dense concentration of microscopic inclusions—typically graphite or hematite—that absorb light and render the stone opaque.

Some black diamonds, known as carbonados, are polycrystalline aggregates rather than single crystals, composed of tiny diamond grains fused with dark minerals like magnetite. Exceptionally tough, carbonados are found almost exclusively in Brazil and the Central African Republic and may have extraterrestrial origins—possibly formed in supernova explosions and delivered to Earth via meteorites some 2.3 billion years ago.

Black diamond gemstones, and The Enigma, a 555.55-carat faceted carbonado diamond with 55 facets.

Other natural black diamonds, sourced globally including in Australia, form like white diamonds but incorporate dark inclusions during growth or weathering. Remarkable examples include the Black Orlov, a 67.50-carat cushion-cut gem steeped in legend, and the Spirit of de Grisogono, the largest cut black diamond in the world at 312.24 carats.

Natural black diamonds can fetch tens of thousands per carat, with their value driven by their unique appearance and growing market appeal.

Fancy White Diamonds

Milky white diamonds, uncommon among colored stones, display a translucent, milky glow, contrasting the brilliance of colorless gems and comprising less than 1% of mined diamonds.

Their distinctive appearance results from microscopic inclusions—tiny crystals, gas bubbles, or particle clouds—that scatter light, producing a soft, diffused effect rather than sparkle. Known as Fancy White, these diamonds, scarcer than brown or yellow but less valued than vivid colors, are sourced from mines in South Africa, Botswana, Angola, Brazil, and India.

Fancy white diamonds showcasing icy colorless to milky translucent hues.

While no true milky white gem holds iconic status, the 203.04-carat Millennium Star, a near-clear diamond from the Democratic Republic of Congo, gained notoriety after a foiled 2000 heist. Prized for affordability and unique texture, Fancy White diamonds appeal to niche collectors, enhancing vintage or artisanal jewelry with their subtle, glowing character.

Chameleon Diamonds

Chameleon diamonds showcase a unique ability to shift hues, typically from olive or grayish-green to yellowish or orangey tones, comprising among the rarest diamond types.

This transformation, triggered by heating to ~150°C or 24 hours in darkness, reverts upon cooling or light exposure, driven by hydrogen-related defects and nitrogen aggregates in the crystal lattice that alter light absorption, though the exact mechanism remains unclear.

Color-changing chameleon diamonds shifting from yellow-green

Rare chameleon diamonds displaying color-changing properties from yellow-green in different lighting conditions.

Sourced primarily from the Democratic Republic of Congo and Central Africa, with few documented finds elsewhere, these gems are seldom seen. Notable examples include the Smithsonian’s 31.32-carat chameleon diamond, shifting from olive green to yellow-orange, and the 60-carat Chopard Chameleon Diamond, among the largest known.

Valued for their rare color-shifting trait, chameleon diamonds intrigue collectors and researchers, commanding premium prices in specialized jewelry markets.

Natural diamond color variations.

The value of fancy colored diamonds rests on their hue, tone, and saturation, with vivid hues commanding premium prices, unlike colorless diamonds prized for their clarity. Comprising less than 1% of mined diamonds, fancy colors gain worth through intense shades, from deep blues to vibrant pinks, shaped by trace impurities and lattice defects. These hues reflect the Earth’s geological complexity, each color tracing unique conditions deep within the mantle billions of years ago. Beyond valuation, rare phenomena like chameleon diamonds, which shift hues under heat or light due to hydrogen defects, underscore the intricate science of coloration.